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Wandering through the many markets of Lyon, it is impossible to separate the city itself from the food culture that permeates it. The two are inextricably linked. From Les Halles, a market over a hundred years old, to the Lyonnaise bouchons serving traditional, hearty dishes, you cannot explore Lyon without experiencing its food culture. Visit Lyon’s many markets, taste traditional Lyonnaise cuisine, and explore the vast history of the gastronomic capital of France with two days in Lyon.
Read more: 2 Days in Lyon: History and Cuisine in the Gastronomic Capital of FranceDay 1 in Lyon: Croix-Rousse, Vieux Lyon, and Fourvière
Begin your 2-day Lyon itinerary exploring the neighborhoods of Croix-Rousse and Vieux Lyon, the fourth and fifth arrondissements.
Explore Croix-Rousse
Begin exploring in the Croix-Rousse, “the hill that works,” a neighborhood rich with the history of silk weavers, or canuts. With the Lyon City Card, you can easily take the train to this area, which I recommend, because it is at the top of a steep hill.
First, head to the Mur des Canuts, a huge mural depicting the vibrancy of the neighborhood. It was created in 1987 by the Cité de la Création and has been updated twice to reflect the evolution of the neighborhood and characters.
Nearby, you can visit the Croix-Rousse theater, notable for its Art Deco facade, built by Michel Roux-Spitz. It opened in 1931 as the neighborhood festival hall and became a theater in 1997. If you aren’t into architecture, you can probably skip this stop.
Croix-Rousse has many examples of traboules, passageways between buildings that the silk workers used to traverse the city and avoid the elements. The traboules are still operational pathways today, but they have important historical context. During the silk workers’ revolt of 1831, these tunnels were used to get around without alerting the police. The resistance also used them during World War II to avoid detection. Step back in time and discover these hidden passageways!
Breakfast at Crema
For a quick breakfast and pick-me-up, head to Crema, a popular coffee shop in Croix-Rousse. They serve coffee, including espresso and V60 pour-over, and pastries. We tried an apricot and thyme scone that was delicious! Crema gets busy, but there is additional seating upstairs.
Maison des Canuts
Just down the street from Crema is Maison des Canuts, a museum where you can learn about the history of silk weaving in Lyon, the world capital of silk weaving in the 19th century. It is a small museum, but worthwhile to learn about this important piece of Lyon’s past. At the Maison des Canuts, you can see an example of the giant looms used to weave intricate silks. Most silk workers lived and worked in their homes, requiring large ceilings to fit the tall looms.
You can see a demonstration of weaving on a traditional loom at the Maison des Canuts if you reserve a spot in advance. With the Lyon City Card, admission to the museum and the demonstration is free. Reserve a spot online and select the “free” option to pay later. You’ll be asked to present your City Card when you arrive.
The weaving demonstration is in French and English, depending on the group requirements, and lasts about 15 minutes. Afterwards, the tour will continue for the French speakers, and English speakers can view the museum. We were the only English speakers in the group on the day we visited.
The museum only has signs in French, but they have a packet you can read along with for the English translation. Maison des Canuts is open Tuesday through Saturday. The weaving demonstration takes place at 11 AM and 3:30 PM most days, with different hours on Saturday.
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Stroll through the Croix-Rousse Market
There are tons of markets around Lyon. The Market at Place de la Croix-Rousse is open daily from 6 AM to about 1 PM, excluding Mondays. They sell fruits and vegetables, dairy products, meat, breads, and ready-to-eat foods, as well as clothing and used goods.
We had a delicious coffee from Petit Kogi, a small coffee cart owned by a local from Lyon who has traveled extensively to source his own coffee beans. We chatted with him and a couple of other travelers who had stopped for a coffee, and he seamlessly switched between French, English, and Spanish as he brewed our coffee.
Walk a Scenic Path
Continue your walk to Vieux Lyon via the scenic street, Montée de la Grande Côte. This is a steep street with stairs, so it is best to walk down the incline rather than up. Enjoy the views of the city, peeking between the walls of historic buildings and terracotta roofs. This is a great spot for photographers to check out!
Vieux Lyon
The walking tour of Lyon continues as you reach Vieux Lyon, or Old Lyon. This is one of the most historic parts of the city, dating back to the Middle Ages and Renaissance era, known for narrow, winding, cobblestone streets and hidden traboules.
We found this area pretty touristy, with lots of souvenir shops and restaurants asking you to dine. It was one of the busier areas in Lyon, and as such, didn’t end up being our favorite. Passing a few closed traboules in the area, we discovered they are usually open in the morning. Next time, I would take a walking tour of the area to ensure we see the traboules and avoid the touristy spots.
Book this highly rated tour run by a local living in Lyon!
Daniel et Denise Saint Jean
For lunch, head to Daniel et Denise, a popular Lyonnaise bouchon. Eating at a Lyonnaise bouchon is a necessary part of a first-time itinerary in Lyon. These traditional Lyonnaise restaurants serve the staple cuisine from the area, including quenelles de brochet with Nantua sauce and tablier de sapeur, among others. Daniel et Denise is an officially recognized Lyonnaise bouchon, as are others on this list.
We were skeptical of Daniel et Denise Saint Jean based on the proximity to Lyon’s most touristy area, but we had a great experience. The restaurant is tucked away a few blocks from the center of Vieux Lyon. Looking at it from the outside, you wouldn’t really notice it. Unlike many restaurants in this area, they don’t have a patio encouraging people to come in, but it will likely be packed anyway. Definitely make reservations in advance, and note that this location is closed on Sundays.
We tried the Lyonnaise salad, tablier de sapeur, and Auvergne pork with confit vegetables. All dishes come with potatoes browned in duck fat and béchamel pasta gratin, for an extra 5 Euros. The Lyonnaise salad was an unexpected highlight, with large chunks of bacon, housemade croutons, and a soft poached egg that you stirred into the greens. The tablier de sapeur was also very good and fun to try. It reminded us of German schnitzel a little bit. Don’t forget to order a pot Lyonnaise, wine served in a heavy-bottomed bottle, the traditional way to wash down a meal at a bouchon.
Funicular to the Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourvière
Just outside of Daniel et Denise Saint Jean, you can see the funicular track. The bright red carriage passes between the buildings every few minutes, so it might be worth waiting to see. Then, head to the funicular station to ride it up to the Basilica. A Lyon City Card includes riding the funicular, so just tap your card against the reader and line up. Easy!
Besides the moment when the funicular passes between buildings, this is not a very scenic ride because it is mostly inside a tunnel, so I wouldn’t worry too much about where you sit.
Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourvière
The funicular takes you directly to the Basilica Notre-Dame de Fourvière. The incredible structure towers over you as you exit the funicular station.
The Basilica Notre-Dame de Fourvière is a gorgeous church, perched on a hill above Lyon. Locals call it “the hill that prays” in contrast to Croix-Rousse. You can enjoy views of it from many places in the city, especially along the Saône River.
The basilica was built in 1872 and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Go inside the basilica to admire the intricate gold and turquoise patterns adorning the ceiling, held up by pale blue columns. This is one of the most beautiful church interiors I have ever seen! You can also check out the crypt below, which is actually considered the lower church and is the same size as the basilica. When you exit, make sure you head around the back of the church to enjoy the incredible views of Lyon.
Théâtre Gallo-Romain
From the basilica, it is an easy 8-minute walk to the Gallo-Roman Theater, the remains of a Roman theater built in 15 B.C. During Roman times, Lyon was known as Lugdunum, an important trade city due to its location near the Rhône and Saône rivers. There are actually two theaters at this site: a large open-air theater and an odeon, a once-covered structure used for concerts.
It is free to enter. Unfortunately, when we visited, it was closed due to inclement weather.
Lugdunum
The Lugdunum museum is next to the Roman ruins and contains a large collection of archeological artifacts from prehistoric through Roman times, including Roman art, pottery, coins, and more that show the evolution of this ancient city. With the City Card, entry is free, so check it out!
The museum is open 11 AM to 6 PM most days, opening an hour earlier on the weekend. It is closed on Mondays.
Brassaire des Deux Rives
For dinner, head to Brassaire des Deux Rives. It is a little touristy, but the food was great! Definitely make a reservation ahead of time because this is a popular spot. Sit inside at the chef’s bar to watch them prepare the food in the open-format kitchen, or sit outside and enjoy people-watching. Either way, it is an experience in itself.
We ordered the cervelle de canut, a dish you must try while in Lyon! The literal translation means “silk worker’s brains”, but it is actually a cheese and herb dip served with bread. We ordered the duck and the sausage with potatoes and gravy for our main meal. This was Luke’s favorite duck dish on the trip. The sausage was good, albeit a little dry, and the plate was very rich.
For dessert, make sure to order the Paris-Brest, the restaurant’s specialty. It is a decadent choux pastry filled with a sweet praline cream and roasted hazelnuts. We also tried the strawberry pavlova, which was divine!
Abstract
If you are still going strong after a 3-course meal, head to Abstract, a bar on Lyon’s 50 Best list. Abstract is actually a tasting room, not a bar, because they produce their own spirit called Monochrome. They infuse it with various flavors and use the spirit to make craft cocktails. They only serve the Monochrome spirit, so there are no other spirits available.
Entering Abstract, you will immediately see where they came up with the name. The building sits at the corner of an intersection, resulting in a triangular-shaped interior. Walking through the door, you pass the narrowest point and see a triangular-shaped bar in the center of the space.
The cocktails were fun and creative. A highlight was the Bloody Mary made with the Monochrome Marmite spirit and their house-made Bloody mix, which was delicious. It was garnished with a celery stick as tall as Luke while sitting. Another delightful surprise was the Martini Pâtissier, made with Monochrome Butter, where you could actually taste the butter!
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Day 2 in Lyon: Food and History in the 3rd and 7th Arrondissements
The second day in Lyon will be spent exploring the 3rd arrondissement, home to a popular food market, and the 7th arrondissement.
Food Tour at Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse
Since we are all foodies here, the next day in Lyon will begin with a food tour of Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse. This market is one of the main reasons that Lyon was designated the gastronomic capital of France, so it is an absolute must-visit! We took a food tour with Wine and Free, run by Amelie, whom we met in Beaujolais.
Our food tour was with Laura, a local to Lyon. This private food tour included visiting three spots in the market to taste classic French foods such as escargot, pâté en croute, and charcuterie from local vendors. Each stop came with a wine pairing. It was incredible to chat with Laura about everything from food to politics — just another reminder that sharing food is the best way to connect with people from other cultures.
Book your own food tour of Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse here!
The market opened in 1859 and has since been a place for locals and visitors to enjoy local cuisine. A homage to Paul Bocuse, one of the most famous chefs from Lyon, was added to the name in 2006. He was trained by Eugénie Brazier, one of the “mothers” of Lyonnaise cuisine.
After the food tour, we walked around the market a little more and tried some huge oysters from Chez Antonin, spotted Baba La Grenouille (a popular spot for frog legs; they were packed!), and bought some souvenirs to take home. Even if you don’t take a food tour, Les Halles is worth a stop!
Center of History of Resistance and Deportation
Next, head to the Center of History of Resistance and Deportation, a museum with exhibits on the deportation of Jews and the resistance during the Nazi occupation of Lyon. During World War II, Lyon was dubbed the “Capital of the Resistance” because of its location in Free France and the organized resistance efforts. In 1942, the city became occupied by the Nazis, and many of the members of the resistance were arrested under the leadership of Klaus Barbie, the head of the Gestapo in Lyon.
This may not be a fun topic, but it is extremely important, especially these days. This museum was opened because the stories of deportation and resistance aren’t being told within families anymore, and this collective memory is integral to making sure similar atrocities don’t happen in the future.
Entrance to the Center of History of Resistance and Deportation is included in your City Card. The signs are all in French, but they have a great audio guide available at the front desk.
Testimonies from the Klaus Barbie Trials
Klaus Barbie was a Nazi stationed in Lyon in charge of punishing members of the resistance and sending people to concentration camps. He escaped after the war with the help of the US, which wanted him as an informant for communist activity. He was eventually recognized during his time in South America, living under a new identity given to him by the US government, and France extradited him in 1983, leading to him being tried for crimes against humanity in 1987.
Included with your ticket is a showing of the testimonies from the Klaus Barbie trials. This film is heavy and difficult to watch, but again, it is so important. I recommend starting with the museum and then watching the film because you will likely need a break after the film.
La Raffinerie
After that museum visit, I needed a drink! For something a little different, check out La Raffinerie, a taphouse serving primarily French beer. They have sizable patio seating, which was perfect for the weather during our visit. We tried 1664 Blanche, a great wheat beer, and a Belgian strong. They also serve wine, cocktails, and small plates.
Le bouchon des artistes
For your final dinner in Lyon, it is only right that you eat at another Lyonnaise bouchon to try more local dishes! We went to Le Bouchon des Artistes, which was delicious, and a little ways out of the main tourist area. Make reservations ahead of time if you can.
To start, we ordered the gâteau de foie de volaille (chicken liver mousse), a classic starter at a Lyonnaise bouchon and the Gones-style gougère with canuts cream, a savory pastry with salmon rillette and smoked herring, which was briny and delicious.
For the main dish, order the pike quenelle, a rich, savory soufflé served in a boat of crayfish sauce known as Nantua. It was great! We also tried the andouillette sausage made with veal sweetbread. Andouillette is a French dish we tried before in Paris, but this one was a bit different. The sausage casing was a little loose and could have used more browning, in our opinion, but the intestines had great flavor and were cooked well, especially when paired with the mustard sauce.
Stroll Along the Rhône
On your way back to presqu’île, stroll along the Rhône River and admire Hôtel-Dieu, a historic building that is illuminated at night. When we walked by Quai Augagneur, people were enjoying the summer evening and the lively atmosphere. This would be a fun place to people-watch!
That concludes 2 days in Lyon. For more information about planning your Lyon itinerary, keep reading!
Where to Stay in Lyon
We stayed at Repbulik Hotel in Lyon, centrally located in presqu’île near Place Bellecour in the 2nd arrondissement. This was a great home base for exploring Lyon. The rooms were clean, but simple and small (like Japan small!), but most importantly for us in July, the air conditioning worked really well.
How to Get Around Lyon
Lyon has a good public transportation system that includes metros, buses, trams, and funiculars run by TCL. Unlimited transportation is included with the Lyon City Card, which makes it easy to move around without worrying about tickets. Simply tap your card on the bus or tram, or tap on the turnstile gate to use the metro.
If you don’t have the City Card, you can purchase a single-trip ticket for about €2, or 24- to 72-hour unlimited passes are available. Tickets can be purchased at TCL kiosks, select stores, or on the TCL mobile app. For unlimited passes, you must first purchase a TCL card on the app or at a TCL agency or select retailer. See more information here.
Uber and Bolt are available in Lyon, as well as taxis.
Lyon City Card
A Lyon City Card will make your trip to Lyon much easier, and there are tons of potential savings! Beyond public transportation, the City Card includes entrance to 26 museums, one guided tour, sightseeing cruises, and shows. The City Card even includes some highly rated tours such as a 1-hour walking tour in Vieux Lyon.
You can purchase a Lyon City Card online and then pick it up at the Only Lyon tourism office in Place Bellecour. The City Card is activated upon first validation at one of the included activities.
Lyon Itinerary FAQ
How far is Lyon from Paris?
Lyon is two hours away from Paris via high-speed rail (TGV) or about a five-hour drive with tolls.
When is the best time to visit Lyon?
The best time to visit Lyon is in the shoulder season, spring or fall, for temperate weather and fewer crowds.
How many days do you need in Lyon?
Two to three days in Lyon is enough time to see the main sights and try some amazing food.
What days of the week are things closed in Lyon?
Many things are closed on Sundays, Mondays, or both in Lyon, including museums, local restaurants, and bars.
Is Lyon worth visiting?
Lyon is absolutely worth visiting. As the capital of French gastronomy, there are numerous experiences for food-focused travelers. Additionally, Lyon is easy to reach from Paris and is a hub for transportation to other cities in the south, so it is a convenient city for your France itinerary!
Reflections on 2 Days in Lyon
After four trips to Paris, I am so glad that we finally got outside of the capital to experience more of France. The gastronomic capital of France is a must-visit for any food lover. I have a feeling we will be back to this city of two rivers at some point!
