Granada: A Day in a Fairy Tale Town

Last updated on June 28th, 2020 at 06:07 pm

Granada was my favorite city that we explored on our 16 day road-trip through Spain because there were so many things to do and it was absolutely beautiful! When we arrived in Granada the smell of oranges in the air brought new life into me after eight hours of driving.

We checked into our AirBnB and the most gracious host we have ever had, Hugo, greeted us warmly and gave us an array of local tips. This AirBnB had the most gorgeous view and I instantly fell in love with Granada before even stepping out onto the cobbled street.

We had endured a rainy visit to Valencia, a marriage proposal gone wrong, and about eight hours of driving. This is exactly what I needed. By the time we got ready and headed out for dinner, all the restaurants were packed, so we settled for some seafood paella at Le Bicicleta. It was much better than the paella we had in Valencia, surprisingly.

Pionono

Feeling much more refreshed in the morning, we headed to Pastelerias Casa Ysla, one of Hugo’s many suggestions. The piononos, a tasty, moist pastry that originated in Granada, were amazing.

We didn’t know what these were when we ordered them, but decided to just trust Hugo’s recommendation. If you are looking for breakfast, I would recommend ordering a croissant, orange juice, and coffee with your pionono for a more typical (and filling) European breakfast. We were in a hurry, so we just ate the piononos and continued on our quest.

Alhambra

The walk to the Alhambra is very steep and the roads are primarily cobble stone. Hugo recommended we wear walking shoes, but I wore sandals and did fine. It started pouring rain again, so, as always, I recommend bringing a small travel umbrella (paid link).

The Alhambra is an absolute must-see when you visit Granada. It is the most beautiful structure I have ever seen. I suggest buying your tickets about three months in advance because they sell out really fast. The general option includes the Nasrid Palaces, the most beautiful and intricate part of the whole structure. You need to choose a time slot when you buy tickets for the Nasrid Palaces and you must enter at this time otherwise you won’t be let in.

The general admission is 14 euros, but they also have other options. Get your tickets here.

I would spend a couple hours at the Alhambra. Make sure you check out the gardens and admire the beautiful views of the Sacromonte, the area known as the gypsy quarters.

How to Find Tapas in Granada

Granada is rumored to be the town where tapas were invented, but you can find tapas all over Andalusia. There are several theories of the origin of tapas, two of which we heard on our Food Tour in Barcelona.

The first is that the Spanish would put a small piece of bread on top of their wine to keep flies out. Eventually this evolved into getting a snack, usually bread with olive oil, tomato or sardines, with a glass of wine or beer.

The other theory is that there was a Spanish king who used to travel and would frequently stop to visit several houses in one night. At each house he would be offered wine. He began requesting that people serve small snacks when they served him wine, so that he would be able to get home safely.

Either way, tapas are authentically Andalusian. While we were in Granada, it was difficult to spot the authentic tapas bars out of the slew of touristy restaurants that advertise tapas. Traditional tapas are simply brought to the table when you order a drink. More and more the bars have started charging for tapas or else become over run with people. My advice to you? Visit the smaller towns in Andalusia, like Granada, turn down a dark and abandoned corner, and maybe you’ll get a taste of the true (and free) Andalusian treasure.

Taberna la Tana

Hugo suggested several tapas bars including La Sitarilla (more traditional), Provincias (his personal favorite), and Los Diamantes (for fried fish). We decided to try Taberna la Tana, also on his list and one of the places Anthony Bourdain visited in Parts Unknown.

It was very good and it was the most traditional tapas that we had. They brought three different plates with bread. The first was a simple tomato and olive oil with a side of olives. The next was olive oil, walnuts, and grapes, which was different from anything I had ever tried but very good. The last was red pepper, sardine, and pickle. The waiter mentioned that they get very busy in the evening, so plan accordingly.

Granada Cathedral

Next stop, more beautiful Spanish architecture. The Cathedral of Granada is a little inconspicuous from the outside, as all of the buildings in Granada are beautiful. We were standing right outside of it and had no idea.

Once inside though, the Cathedral is gorgeous, painted all white with many beautiful chapels.

It is 5 Euros to get in, including the audio guide, but they also give a student discount for the price of 3,5 Euros.

Los Italianos

Another one of Hugo’s great suggestions, this ice cream shop was really good. When we walked in, there was a line of professionals in chefs dress behind the counter, ready to take our order. Hugo recommended we try cream with almonds sandwich style on a wafer cookie. The ice cream was so creamy!

Mirador San Cristobal

For sunset, head to Mirador de San Cristobal. The views from here are absolutely spectacular, although the hike up is tough. You can see all of Granada, with it’s white washed buildings and red roofs, as well as the Alhambra, which is quite a sight all lit up at night.

This is a very popular spot, so the earlier you can get there, the better. As we were leaving, a whole bus of tourists piled out and we wouldn’t have been able to get a decent shot.

Flamenco

Another awesome Spanish tradition that originated in Granada is Flamenco. We went to Zambra María la Canastera to see a Flamenco show and it was incredible. There were many people crammed in a cave, the same cave that the very famous María la Canastera danced in throughout her life as a flamenco dancer, to watch the show. It was quite the traditional experience and I highly recommend it. The dancers were extremely talented and the atmosphere was perfect.

They provide you the option of dinner, as well as the option of being picked up from wherever you are staying. We declined both and walked from the Mirador San Cristobal to the Museo de la Zambra, enjoying another glorious view of the Alhambra on our way.

El Deseo

Craving more tapas, we headed to El Deseo for dinner, another recommendation from Hugo. I’m not sure if it is because we sat at a table or because we were there for dinner, but we did not get tapas in the traditional sense. I think there is some tapas etiquette that we didn’t have time to catch on to during our short visit to Granada. It may be better to dine at bars instead of restaurants because, as Hugo had mentioned, in Spain drink places typically have food as well.

If anyone has any tips on eating tapas in Andalusia, please comment below!

Despite not getting tapas like we wished, we ordered some really great pasta and still went home very satisfied.

Paseo de los Tristes

If you have extra time, check out Paseo de los Tristes, which is a street with  beautiful stone bridges. We went the next morning after getting breakfast at Pastelerias Casa Ysla.

With its beautiful Alhambra, cobbled stone streets, and white washed city on a hill, Granada is like something out of a fairy tale. If you are in Spain, this is a place you have to experience for yourself.

Have you been to Granada? Were you as enchanted as I was?

Shop My Essentials for Granada

Don’t travel without a small, lightweight travel umbrella. This one is my favorite and I don’t go anywhere without it (paid link).

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