Last updated on November 7th, 2023 at 08:02 am
Usually when I’m traveling, it’s a bit of a mess. I make plans, but, no matter what, something always goes wrong. That is just the nature of travel. But sometimes things just go right. Our day trip to Xochimilco in Mexico City is an example of one of the times everything went right.
Preparing to Visit Xochimilco
I had heard about Xochimilco in my extensive research of Mexico City and I was really hoping that we would get the chance to visit. I didn’t want to take a tour though, I wanted an authentic experience. In my research, I had read that it is cheaper and more fun to rent a boat with others, but they won’t let you rent with strangers if it appears that you didn’t come together. So it is ideal to meet someone prior to arriving at the dock, if you wish to save some money.
I had everything planned out. Take the subway all the way to Xochimilco, make friends on the subway, arrive in Xochimilco, and rent a boat. Simple, right? This plan was dependent on our ability to successfully navigate two hours outside the city, make friends with strangers headed to the exact same place, and speak Spanish well enough to haggle the boat price down.
I felt confident that we could be successful in one of these areas, but the likelihood of all these things happening was near impossible. Not to mention that I tend to get my hopes up that I will be able to find and navigate these authentic experiences, just to discover that there is more to it than expected. For example, when we were in Andalusia, I thought I would be able to eat tapas all day, but in reality I had a hard time finding authentic tapas bars.
However, despite all these doubts, we managed to achieve our goals and had one of the best travel experiences ever. If I can do it, so can you! Here is everything you need to know to plan an incredible trip to Xochimilco (and I’ll cross my fingers that the universe aligns for you as it did for me).
The Floating Gardens of Xochimilco
Perhaps you have heard of the floating gardens of Xochimilco or the Mexico City canals? Both the canals and the floating gardens are in Xochimilco, one of the boroughs of Mexico City, and their history is quite interesting.
Xochimilco sits on what used to be the shore of Lake Xochimilco. In order to increase agricultural production, the pre-Hispanic people constructed “floating gardens,” or chinampas, out of juniper trees and soil. As these chinampas spread, a series of man made canals were created that connected the Valley of Mexico and were used to transport goods using a type of boat called a trajinera.
Overtime, the lake was drained and the floating gardens combined to create solid ground, leaving only the canals in Xochimilco. Like many other popular tourist attractions, the canals of Xochimilco are still endanger of disappearing. They were proclaimed a World Heritage Site in 1987 in order to preserve their history.
Island of the Dolls
Another famous aspect of Xochimilco is the Island of the Dolls, or Isla de las Muñecas. Don Julián Santana Barrera was a local who lived on one of the floating gardens of Xochimilco. The legend says that one day Barrera discovered a young girl who had gotten lost in the current. He was unable to save her but hung her doll to one of his trees as a sign of respect. He began to hear voices and wails, so he continued to hang dolls in order to appease the voices, which he believed belonged to the girl’s spirit.
This story drove many tourists to visit the famous floating island, which you can do if you opt for a longer trip down the canals. All over the canals you will see creepy dolls and stuffed animals hanging from the trees.
How to get to Xochimilco from Mexico City
Getting to Xochimilco using public transportation is easy, but a little time-consuming. Make sure you have purchased a rechargeable CDMX card for the Metro because you will have to buy one for the last leg of your journey anyway. You must load your Metro card with at least 10 pesos when you purchase it and can refill at any station.
Take the Line 2 train going towards Tasqueña for only 5 pesos. Transfer to Tren Ligero and take it 17 stops to Xochimilco. This section of the journey will be 3 pesos with the CDMX metro pass. Finally, walk about another 10 minutes and then you will arrive at Embarcadero De Belem. The entire journey takes about two hours.
There are many other Embarcaderos in the area, but I felt satisfied with Embarcadero Belem de las flores because it was busy (but not too crazy) and there seemed to be plenty of locals around. Another popular boat loading area is Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas, which may require an Uber or Taxi ride from the metro station because it is a bit further.
There is also the option to Uber straight from Mexico City to Xochmilico, which will be more expensive but may save you some time depending on the traffic.
Making Friends in Xochimilco
When we finally got off the last train, seeing no other tourists on our train car, I had lost all hope that we would be able to find anyone to share a boat with. I took one last hopeless glance behind me, just to make sure, and that’s when I saw another couple, about our age, heads craning above the crowd. Eventually they caught up to us and introduced themselves. It turns out that we had heard the same information about Xochimilco and we agreed to head to the docks together to rent a boat.
Renting a Boat in Xochimilco
We honestly could not have done the haggling without our new friends. I give them 100% credit for that. They were both fairly fluent in Spanish and were able to get us an affordable boat with four enormous micheladas. We only rented the boat for two hours, although there was an option to rent for four hours as well. The two hour trip is out and back. The time went by very quickly so I wouldn’t have minded doing a four hour trip as long as there were a couple bathroom stops.
If you don’t speak Spanish and aren’t able to find someone who can, don’t give up hope! Familiarize yourself with the current prices for boat rentals and practice saying that number in Spanish. I wouldn’t be surprised if the dock masters spoke a bit of English either. If you are uncomfortable with that situation, going to Xochimilco with a tour is also an option.
Current Prices of a Trajinera
Prices for a trajinera are per hour and per boat. Do not pay more than 500 pesos per hour for a boat (about $27 USD). You may be able to find a boat as cheap as 350 pesos per hour.
What to Eat in Xochimilco
There are many options for food on your boat ride through Xochimilco. You can bring your own food or drinks, like many of the locals do, or buy food from the vendors on the canals.
The vendors may charge more for their snacks, but the experience of ordering food while on the water is fun. Once you tell your captain what you would like to eat (there are several options), he will attract the vendor selling your desired food and both boats will pull over. Then, sunbathe on the boat while you wait for them to cook up some delicious food! Just make sure you don’t wait to long to ask your captain because there are only so many boats that serve a specific type of food.
We got carne asada and chicken tacos, with rice and beans. We also decided we wanted to try pulque, a traditional Mexican drink made from fermenting sap from the maguey plant. I really liked it and would like to try it again. Once the food arrives and is paid for, feast as you float down the river.
If you prefer to bring your own food and drink, stop at the Xochimilco Market before you head to the docks and pick up whatever you prefer.
Tips for Visiting Xochimilco
- There are bathrooms on the river, so make sure you ask your driver to stop. It may also be good to pace yourself with the drinking because once you pass the bathrooms on the way back, you’ll have to wait.
- Make sure you grab your toilet paper before you go into the bathroom (as with many places around Mexico City).
- Bring cash for the boat ride as well as for any food or souvenirs you want to pick up on the canals. You will also need some smaller change to use for the bathroom and refilling your Metro card.
- Saturdays and Sundays will be busier, but have more of a party atmosphere than a weekday.
- Beware of holidays, like Holy Week and Dia de los Muertos, because they often attract both families and tourists to the area. We went the Sunday before New Year’s Eve and it was busy enough to be enjoyable.
Enjoy Xochimilco
You made it! Sit back and enjoy your boat ride through the canals. This is a very popular spot for locals and you will see many large families feasting as they sail down the river. The boats move slowly because there is so much traffic. Enjoy the Mariachi bands playing, sip on your michelada, and get to know some new people. It is truly an unforgettable experience.
Enjoy drinking with a view? Check out these denver bars with great views.
Other Things to do near Xochimilco
If you feel like hanging around Xochimilco after your boat ride, you can check out Pulqueria el Templo de Diana, a traditional Pulquería.
The Frida Kahlo house, Casa Azul, is on the way back from Xochimilco in Coyoacan. This provides the perfect excuse to explore this artsy district of Mexico City.
Have you rented a trajinera in Xochimilco? Did you have a good experience? Let me know in the comments!
Don’t miss out on any other amazing experiences with this guide to visiting Mexico City.
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Shelby!
Top notch travel reporting. You bring all the charms of Xochimilco to life. A really deep dive into the area and all it has to offer.
Thank you so much!
This was so insightful. I will definitely come back to this to plan my trip to Xochimilco. The dolls on the river would probably creep me out a little though 🙂
I agree, they were creepy!
The canals and floating gardens in Xochimilco look amazing! I would love to visit everything you’ve mentioned, but those photos captured my attention! How beautiful, and what a fun boat ride overall.
It was a great time!
Xochimilco is so colourful, i would love to take a boat down the canal with a michelada. We’ve been to Mexico but not made it to the Mexico City area, but we certainly plan on doing so soon.
I absolutely loved it, you should go!
I think the food experience would be the best part! It look so yummy, and plus the views are not bad either!
Agreed!
Mexico is so high on my bucketlist! Xochimilco sounds so different and fun 🙂
You definitely need to go! Mexico is amazing!
Great post and tips about Xochimilco, Mexico City. It’s looks so colorful, just as I imagined.
Thanks, Sarah!
Xochimilco sounds like a great place to visit. The story of the dolls is quite sad really.
Yes it is!
I’ve never been to Mexico, but I have a friend visiting mid next year. Will definitely forward this onto her, looks amazing!
Please do!
I had no idea about the booking process/hagggling because when I went in December, one of the guys in our group of 10 has family in Mexico City and organized everything for us. Now, reading how complicated the process can be, I’m even more thankful I didn’t have to take part in any of the planning of that trip! It was so much fun, and I did particularly enjoy the experience of ordering lunch on the water!
Yes it is so helpful to have someone to organize it for you!
Those floating gardens look amazing! I;ve only been to Peurto Vallarta and near the border towns at San Diego….Id love to visit here and Mexico City!
Valerie
You absolutely should! I highly recommend it!